There is nothing quite like hitting the road on a trip through Western Nigeria, with windows down, music playing, or perhaps enjoying the sounds from nature that fill the air, as you watch landscape, rustic villages, and towns. The journey to your destination is not just about the miles travelled, but more about the vibrant life along the way, where you will encounter locals as they skillfully move through the gaps between cars, expertly advertising tasty edibles as well as wares through windows to tempt visitors to stop and buy. These exchanges, views, smells, sounds beckon an individual for an adventure with history, culture, and beauty that is unique to Western Nigeria.
Lagos to Abeokuta – A Presidential Start
Our journey began early in Lagos, with pick-ups scheduled on both the Mainland and the Island. With bags packed and excitement in the air, we set off at exactly 6:00 AM, leaving behind Lagos as it began to awaken.
We arrived in Abeokuta at 9:00 AM, and immediately set out to explore the Obasanjo Presidential Library (OOPL), eager to consume what the library had in store for us.
The Library housed archives, artifacts, exhibitions, and records of the Former President.
The highlight of our visit was a brief, unexpected meeting with the former President himself. While it was an exciting tour for us, we respected the library’s policy, which prohibits photography of the facility. With our minds full of history and inspiration, we continued on to the next item on our itinerary.
Our next stop was meant to be Olumo Rock, an iconic landmark in Abeokuta known for its towering presence and deep cultural roots. Unfortunately, the gates remained closed and hadn’t been opened to the general public by the government.
The Kuti Heritage museum
So, we moved on to a truly inspiring place that persevered within it walls is the legacy of one of Nigeria’s most influential families across history: The Kuti Heritage Museum. It was the childhood home of the Ransome Kuti children: Dolupo, Olikoye, Olufela, and Bekololari. This family made significant contributions to art, religion, education, politic, and medicine in Nigeria. Getting to see the home of these great minds was a must-see for all of us. The house itself is a unique 2-floor building. Much of the original interior such as furniture, appliances, musical instruments has been kept unchanged to preserve its legacy as a home and as a symbol to history forever.
Before leaving for Abeokuta, we made a quick but memorable stop at the Adire market, known for its unique traditional tie-and-dye techniques and patterns in fabric making. It stands out as a symbol of Yoruba artistry and culture, and it’s also a perfect place to buy a souvenir.
Ibadan Vibes: Games, Karaoke & Comfort
After enjoying a day rich in culture and history, we made our way to Ibadan. We arrived at 4:00 PM and checked into our lodge which turned out to be a cozy haven for a chance to pause and refuel. Once we had settled in and rested, the evening took an exciting turn when the group gathered and had a karaoke session, played games, while enjoying refreshing drinks. As the night wore on, we decided to retire into our rooms for a good night’s rest, looking forward to the next day’s adventure.
Osogbo – A Sacred Encounter with Yoruba Spirituality
The next morning, after taking breakfast, we departed for Osogbo at 9:00 AM. The bus ride was fun because we played games while getting to know one another better. By 11:00 AM we arrived Osogbo and headed straight to the renowned Osun-Osogbo Sacred Grove, which is believed to be the home of Osun (the Yoruba goddess of fertility). We toured the scared grounds with the help of an historical consultant who told stories as he pointed to different sanctuaries, shrines and art works in her honour. The sacred grove, is seen as a symbol of identity for all Yoruba people because groves are sacred place reserved for rituals. The Grove houses 40 shrines and several sculptures and artworks erected in honour of Osun and other Yoruba deities.
From there, we visited Susanne Wenger’s house. She is also known as Adunni Olorisaan and was an Austrian-Nigeria priestess. She played a significant role in restoring and reviving the Osun-Osogbo Sacred Grove. Her home is filled in and out with works of art created by artists of the New Sacred Art Movement. Much of her living quarters still remain unchanged for historical and cultural purposes.
Royal History in Ile-Ife
Next, we journeyed to Ile Ife. Due to our late arrival, we were only able to tour the Ooni of Ife’s palace, also known as ‘Ile Oodua’. The palace, deeply rooted in history and culture, serves as both the official residence of the royal family and the traditional court of Ile Ife. Upon arrival, the Emese, the palace guards and royal messengers, served as our tour guards. They are easily identifiable by their unique hairstlye – half of their heads shaved. This hairstyle symbolizes their lifelong service to the Ooni. The Emese briefed us on palace etiquette: removing of our shoes in certain areas and bowing to the Ooni if we encountered him. They guided us through public areas, shrines and courts accompanied by Yoruba folklore and stories of the palace. They also showed us the gravesides of all the past Oonis of Ile Ife.
After the tour, we stopped at a local canteen very close to the palace, and everyone ordered and ate the popular dish in Western Nigeria: ‘Abula’ a combination of amala, ewedu, gbegiri and stew. By nightfall, we returned to our lodge for a much-needed rest in anticipation of the next day.
On the third day, we woke up early, packed our bags, and checked out of our lodge. Laughter filled the bus as we passed time playing games while heading towards our next destination: Erin Ijesha. We stopped briefly along the way to check out Opa Oranmiyan and Moremi monuments, which we missed the previous day. These monuments each stands as a significant historical tributes to a hero and a heroine who had major impact to Ile Ife.
Erin Ijesha & Ikogosi – Nature’s Wonders
We arrived Erin Ijesha Waterfalls at 11:00 AM. Upon arrival at the waterfall, we hiked, swarm and relaxed. As evening approached, we headed to Ikogosi. We checked into our different apartments and later headed to the leisure park for some fun activities before calling it a night.
The next leg of our tour kicked off quite early. Arriving Ikogosi Warm Spring, shoes flew off as a few of us dived into the water. We marveled at the rare nature bliss of warm and cold springs flowing side by side and forming a confluence, with each still maintaining its distinct temperature.
Idanre Hill – Climbing Through History
After a refreshing experience, we headed off to Idanre, home to the majestic Idanre Hill. Idanre Hill has about 682 steps. Of course, we were geared up in our hiking outfits, armed with bottles of water for this great ascent. The first resting point was an old bar that was craved out of a rock. The second resting point called ‘Danguro spot’. We were informed of the significance of this point. It was a spot where the village warriors assembled when they notice intrusion into their village. Here, they fought back and stopped the advancement of war into the village. Approaching the third resting point, some people were tired but nevertheless, enthusiasm for reaching the end kept us going. From the fourth resting point, we were able to have a clear view of the town. In no time, we completed the steps and continued on a footpath that led to the top of the hill where we toured the settlement on the hill and later the town. After the hike, we returned to Ibadan, had dinner, and enjoyed a restful night.
Final Day: Monuments, Meals & Memories in Ibadan
The final day began at a slower pace. We checked out and started our journey back Lagos. But the trip wasn’t quite over because we still had to tick a few final boxes on our itinerary.
Our first stop over was the Bower Tower. Standing 60 feet tall, the monument was erected in 1936 as a memorial to Captain Robert Lister Bower, the first British resident in Ibadan and the travelling commissioner for the interior of Yorubaland, Southwestern Nigeria, between 1893 and 1897.
Next, we stopped for lunch at the famous Amala Skye, where we again indulged ourselves in a taste of ‘Abula’.
To wrap up the tour, we visited the Cocoa House. Located at Dugbe, a major commercial area in Ibadan, the Cocoa house was built from the proceeds of agriculture. Famous for being the first skyscraper in West Africa, the 26-story building was initially called the ‘Ile Awon Agbe’ (House of Farmers). On its 24th floor, a museum displays early Yoruba artwork, clothing, Kitchenware, tools and the way of life of the Yoruba people.
As we headed back to Lagos, the bus again was filled with laughter, games, and quiet reflection. We arrived Lagos at 6:00 PM, with drops-offs on both mainland and the Island.
Final Thoughts
This road trip through Western Nigeria was more than a getaway. It was a journey into the center of culture, history that makes up what Western Nigeria is today. It was also a journey that opened one up into the beauty and cultural depth of the Yoruba people. Until the next adventure, these memories will stay with us forever, photographed and in our minds.
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